Panorama video head6/1/2023 ![]() When you go to process the files they need to be processed identically. ![]() You should start with a panning clamp for the top of your tripod head and a nodal slide and get familiar with how to determine the nodal point for different lenses or if using a zoom different focal lengths, and for how to compose the panorama.Īs someone else recommended: manual focus, a fixed white balance setting, manual shutter + aperture +ISO settings, and plenty of overlap (I agree with the 30% suggestion - but if you have trouble determining that, every 7.5 degrees of rotation. I guess that totally eliminates the need to level the tripod or the ball head in any way? You just level the pano plate on top of the ball head and rotate from that.īut what advantages does the added bottom plate add if the ball head has a rotating base? I'm a bit curious on that one. I prefer ball heads with pano plates both on the bottom AND on the top - it gives you more freedom.Ī pano plate on top of the ball head sounds like a good added ease. Today's software (I use Photoshop CC) is really good - as long as you use the same settings (aperture, shutter, ISO) for each frame, and overlap them by 20-30%, and use a lens without too much vignetting and distortions, you will not see any stitching artifacts.Īlso, since I am using a hi-res (42MP) camera in vertical orientation for panoramas, I don't do multi-row, but your needs may be different. TL DR: Can a good quality ball head combined with a nodal slide and a good 3 axis hot shoe spirit level achieve good enough result with multi row panoramas of trickier scenarios without any stitching issues? Even in trickier scenarios like the example above. Or is there any fundamental thing I'm missing in the process that the ball head can't do?īut, I guess, the questions is if the other setup will be able to achieve good enough result so there is no visual issue with the stitching. Not that the pano head can do a specific thing that the ball head can't achieve with a bit more hassle. The only difference I can tell from these setups is that with the pano head, rotational adjustments around each axis can be made isolated and also in an very easy and smooth way (duh, that's what you pay for i guess). And the good quality ball head with it's adjustable drag tension will make sure that the adjustments can be made with enough precision. The 3 axis hot shoe spirit level are there to control that there is no rotation around the X-axis. This will control that there is sufficient overlap. Adjustment around the Y-axis is done with the help of the rule of thirds overlay in the camera. When the first row is done and you go back to adjust for the second row. I can't see how the ball head setup can't achieve the same thing as the pano head, just being a bit more fiddly. ![]() ![]() This is my train of thought so far and here is where i need help if I'm correct or not. Ball head setup has a 3 axis hot shoe spirit level.The setups (read: ball head setup) should be able to take a panorama of a trickier scene like for example a seascape where the beach is covered with rocks randomly scattered from foreground to a bit in to the picture.And it also has a panning base with marked degrees around it's base. The ball head has a good quality "brake" system so finer adjustments can be made more easier.So both initial leveling procedures will be the same, via leveling base or leveling the tripod. Either the ball head and the pano head setup has a leveling base or not.This might be alot of text but I will try to keep it clear. The thing I'm trying to work out is if a good quality ball head with a nodal slide is sufficient to make some good multi row panoramas. But would also like to be able to get more into "serious" panoramic photography. Anyway, I'm looking into getting a better quality head for my tripod for some general travel and landscape photography. I don't know if there is a thread that takes up this specific point, but I couldn't find any. I have an issue I'm hoping you can help me with.
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